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Is a Composite bat better than Aluminum? |
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It is basically a matter of opinion and manufacturer. It is my opinion that in most cases, a full composite bat is better than aluminum and is the best technology available today. There are pros and cons to each bat however. Which is better for you depends on what you are looking for in a bat, such as durability, sweetspot, break-in time, flex, and other factors. Keep in mind a couple things about composite bats - they require a longer break-in period for optimum performance, and they are not recommended for use in colder weather.
---> Click here to read more information on Composite Baseball Bats. |
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My son tends to drop the barrel of the bat before he swings. His elbow is up when he is in his stance, but then he drops it when he swings. How can I correct this? Also, how can I help him improve his bat speed? |
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In order to fix the elbow problem your best bet is to use a batting tee and work on the correct form. Essentially, the "correct" form would be swinging level to slight uppercut WITHOUT dropping the back shoulder. Once he has the correct form you can start working on bat speed. The main way to develop Bat Speed is by developing strength, mostly in the forearms and the wrists. One way to help accomplish this is to use a heavier bat during drills. A heavier bat during soft toss for example, will force your son to get the bat through the zone faster. Same thing for live batting practice. Then in a game, go back to the slightly lighter bat. The muscles will still think they are swinging the heavier bat thru the zone therefore creating greater bat speed. The more and more you build the strength, the better the bat speed. |
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I am a left handed batter and tend to pull the ball. Can you give some techniques and drills I can use to learn how to hit straightaway and to the opposite field more? |
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The best way to learn to hit to the opposite field is to learn how to keep your hands back. It's basically like a "waiting" motion. Take your stride, wait an extra split second, swing, and follow through the ball. The best type of drill to use for practicing keeping your hands back is hitting a ball off of a tee. Set up the tee on the outside corner and hit the ball off the tee using the same motions you would use in a game. Take your stride, wait an extra split second, swing, and follow through the ball. The next step would be to move to soft toss drills focusing on meeting the ball and hitting it to the opposite field. Take things in gradual steps and practice off the tee. |
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Is it too early to teach inward turn to 10-12 yr old hitters as step one of the swing or just concentrate on stride and pivot (with no inward turn)? |
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It's best to teach him the right swing as early as possible. The longer he waits to begin the development, the harder it will be to achieve. Of course, his skill level and ability must also be a factor. Include the "inward turn" in your instructions, but go at a slow enough pace so he understands it and give him lots of practice time (especially off a tee). |
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When is the right age to start teaching switch hitting? Better to get one side right first and then add in the other side, or start early? |
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Start early (if he's ready for it). It's difficult to become a good switch hitter if the skills aren't pretty well set by 12 or 13. Keep in mind that some coaches don't believe in switch hitting at all. Here's a recent quote from Charlie Lau: "Why would anyone switch hit? I have reached the point where I don’t see the value of switch-hitting at all...". He believes that if you have the proper batting technique you don't need to switch hit. |
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My 13 year old is a good player and is on select. He can throw the ball from the corner of right field to third on the fly and nail a runner. He also pitches, but for about a year now can't even get the ball past 52 mph. He "flips" just as he follows through, turning his right hand "sunnyside up". As he separates from the glove and brings his arm to 90 degrees he turns the ball to the sky locking his wrist, making it impossible to throw with any velocity. We have tried everything from the towel drill to lessons, but he just can't shake this habit...any ideas or any gadgets. (He was a very good pitcher with great placement but has flopped as of late). |
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The first thing I would do is determine if your son changes the way he throws, meaning the mechanics he uses, from the outfield to pitching. Generally at a young age the mechanics for both aren't very different. To my knowledge there isn't anything out there in the way of gadgets that can simply break this habit. I would recommend more drills. One drill I recommend requires only a ball and glove. Your son could practice it by himself with a rubber ball or with someone else with a real baseball. 1) Have your son line up with his right foot (left foot for a lefty) parallel to some sort of straight line on the ground. 2) The next step is to practice the throwing mechanics, from taking the ball out of the glove to the 90 degree point. 3) The next step is probably the most important one - the throwing arm should look as if it were going to grab a ball off a table behind you. The glove arm at that point should come up to the chin to prepare for the follow through. During the follow through the wrist should roll over from behind the body to face forward at the 90 degree point. 4) The last part of the drill is to snap the wrist during the release of the ball and follow through. Ideally, you should take each step slowly and focus on making the proper corrections. Remember to "take the ball off the table" and to "snap" the wrist when releasing the ball. Repeat the drill as much as necessary and make any needed corrections. After the correct mechanics are learned you can speed up the drill, eventually to where he is throwing at full speed. |
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I am in the process of purchasing a new catchers mitt for my 12 year old. He plays Little League - Majors Division. The youth size 30" & 31" gloves seem too small. I think the 34" adult models are perhaps too big. Do you think a 32 - 32.5" inch pattern is the right size. Also, regarding the pocket depth of a catchers mitt, some gloves are said to have a deep, medium deep, or medium pocket. For youth ball which is typically better? |
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As a catcher for many years, I couldn't even tell you the circumference in inches of the gloves I used. Try to just base the glove selection on 2 basic things: 1) What feels MOST comfortable and fits the hand properly. 2) The type of pitchers he is going to catch. In regards to the pocket size, the general theory is that the smaller the pocket, the quicker it is to retrieve the ball from the glove (ie. for throwing out baserunners or for pickoff attempts). Depending on the type of youth ball being played (leading and stealing or no stealing until the ball crosses homeplate), the importance of being able to retrieve the ball quickly varies. For youth leagues I would normally suggest a bigger size glove, but it has to be comfortable and "feel" right. |
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I've got a couple of little leaguers who want to pitch more effectively. They throw reasonably fast, but they just can't seem to make the ball move (curves or sliders). I really don't know how to teach them this aspect of the game. Any help for a little league dad would be much appreciated. |
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It's difficult to expect much ball movement from a little leaguer. Since not all of the muscles are fully developed and the speed at which the ball is thrown is not very fast, it tends to hinder any pronounced "break" on the pitch. Basically what you can expect is something more of a "spin" ball from most younger players. Though it's not a perfect curve or slider, it will have some movement. There are generally 2 types of curve balls. Both have essentially the same grip. The index and middle finger stay together on the right side of the ball (opposite for a lefty).

1) The first curve is the 12 to 6 curve which denotes its name from the hands of a clock. The ball curves from the top of the strike zone to the bottom nearly straight down. When snapping the wrist at the point of throwing, its important to keep the fingers on top of the ball in order to get the spin for the straight down movement. 2) The second curve is basically a 3/4 curve. The ball should "break" from the top right of the strike zone to the bottom left of the zone (opposite for a lefty). In order to get this movement, it is best to keep the fingers on the side of the ball and snap the wrist as the ball is released. The snap of the wrist is what gives the curve ball it's movement. Same goes for the 12 to 6 curve. The slider moves from right to left through the strike zone. This is a difficult pitch for little leaguers to throw because it usually requires a lot of speed behind it. Depending on who you speak to, some suggest you snap the wrist with this pitch as well, but for the purposes of your little leaguers it's probably best if you teach them to hold the pitch like a curve for finger placement, however, when releasing the ball try to have them not snap the wrist. Instead, have the player put more pressure on that side of the ball and throw it with the same arm action and speed as they would a fastball. Essentially, this is the technique behind what's called a "cut" fastball. Hopefully the pitches will get some movement, and will increase the more they practice. |
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Recently I got involved in coaching High School. I was showing the infielders some "hands" drills, trying to teach "soft" hands. I was teaching the players to field the ball out front and "give in" with the ball and bring it up to a throwing position. The analogy I used was to pretend the ball is an egg and give in with it. I consider this to be "soft" hands. Here's my question! The kids were telling me that they heard it was better to "push out" toward the ball with their hands. I've never heard of this "push out" technique. Which is the proper way to do this "hands" drill? to "give in" or "push out"? |
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The proper way is to "give in". The best way to field a ground ball is to be in a solid fielding position with the feet shoulder width apart, knees bent, and butt parallel to the ground. The feet may be staggered a little bit with the lead foot a few inches in front of the other. The player should move towards the ball and get into this position. As the ball approaches, the hands should be out to meet the ball, and "reel" the ball in. Much like you mentioned, the ball should be treated like an egg. The hands should be out to meet the ball, and then bring it in to make the transfer to the throwing position. There are times when you might have to stab at the ball or scoop it on a short hop, but even then the ball comes "in" to be tranfered into the throwing position. |
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My son is 7 years old and one of the smallest kids in his age group. He is 42" tall and weights 40 lbs. We are trying to determine the best bat length, weight, and brand. |
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In terms of length and weight, I would go with the longest and lightest one that your son can swing comfortably. My guess for his size would be around 27 or 28 inches. Youth bats are usually -10 to -12.5 oz, give or take, so roughly you are looking at around 27"/15oz. Make the decision based on what looks most comfortable when he's holding and swinging the bat. Ask yourself, "Can he swing the bat effectively?" If you think the answer is yes, then you found the right size. As far as brand or model, with the new technology that has been developed in the aluminum bats, its hard to go wrong with just about any of the bats. |
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How do you feel about putting kids in an open stance? |
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In my experience, it's not such a good idea. Assuming that you're talking about a little leaguer, it's better to teach the "fundamentals" of hitting, and an open stance is just one extra thing for him to learn and adjust to. I feel it is overload for very young players. It might be better from a safety point as well, to not have the open stance, because the batter would be looking right at the pitcher as the ball comes in. In the event the pitch is coming in at him, kids sometimes freeze instead of getting out of the way. With the open stance, its harder to get out of the way. For now, stick to the normal or closed stance and teach the fundamentals. |
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My son is 7 1/2 years old and is playing organized baseball for the first time. I have been playing with him for about a year so he's not a novice. He is about 52 inches tall and 68 pounds. He currently swings a 25 inch, 16 ounce aluminum bat. I feel this might be to short for him. I see all these charts recommending anywhere from 26 inches to 29 inches. I've been looking at the Easton 777 which starting at 27 inches long is only 14.5 ounces in weight. Could you recommend a height and weight bat for him. Should I go as light as 14.5 ounces? And what about the right length? I've had people say "short and heavy", and others say "long and light". |
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As far as "short & heavy" or "long & light", go with "long & light". A lighter bat is easier to control and allows you to generate more bat speed. The general rule of thumb for his size would be around 27-29 inches and around a minus 12 drop (15-17 oz). The best way to judge is to watch him swing a few different size and weight bats (at practice or a batting cage). Go with the longest one that he can swing comfortably, effectively, and has control of. |
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I am trying out for my freshman baseball team. I have been playin for 8 years and have been playing outfield for 3. My arm isnt the greatest and second was my old position but everyone says im 2 tall and they say outfield is my positon because i am fast. well today my coach told me i barely made the first cut.. he said im an excellent hitter but my outfield work is terrible... any suggestions? |
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If you've been playing outfield for 3 years, you should have a pretty good feel for it. You didn't say specifically what was "terrible" about your outfield work - dropping balls, mis-judging balls, throwing to the wrong base, ... so, I'll just give a general answer: PRACTICE! Shag fly balls everyday, practice "reading" the ball off the bat, practice long toss everyday. You can also ask your coach for suggestions, like what drills he thinks you should be working on. |
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